The Journal
Notes from the cutting table: craft, cloth and the people who make the clothes.
Eleven pieces make one peak lapel
The lapel is where a blazer is won or lost. We walk through the patterns, the canvas and the pick stitching that give ours its shape.
How a peak lapel is cut, in eleven pieces
A look at the patterns behind our blazer, and why the lapel is the hardest part.
Why we sew every button by hand
Four holes, one shank and a length of waxed thread. It takes eleven minutes.
A visit to the mill in Biella
Three generations, forty looms and a river that sets the colour.
How to press a flannel blazer at home
Steam, a clapper and patience. No iron on the lapel, ever.
The atelier, from above
A morning at the cutting table in Porto.
How to read your own measurements
Chest, shoulder, sleeve: the three numbers that decide a size.
The case for a half-canvassed jacket
What the canvas does, and why it is not the same as fusing.
Flannel, tweed and twill: a short guide
Three cloths, three weights, three ways to wear them.
Mending a coat for the tenth winter
Our repairer on what goes wrong with a coat, and how to fix it.
One letter a month, from the cutting table.
Stories, new runs and fitting dates. Nothing else.